Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Cod, Traditional Flavors Powdered

Cod, Traditional Flavors Powdered

Molecular Gastronomy. To me this is a form of eating best left for those who have experienced every thrill the food world can offer and must now push the boundaries into the realm of science and mystery to get their kicks. I still become giddy when I find a baby bok choy- so creating sugar bubbles filled with maple smoke just isn't high on my list right now. When the July Daring Kitchen challenge (hosted by Sketchy's Kitchen) turned out to be a recipe from the world famous molecular gastronomy restaurant Alinea, I seriously considered opting out. Not only would it be impossible to find a skate wing within 500 miles, but the thought of making all those powders without a spice grinder or a dehydrator didn't excite me very much.

However Mr. B happened to take an unplanned business trip to the "big city" and offered to stop by Whole Foods. He asked me for a list, and when I wrote down 'skate wings' I think his eyebrows just about shot off his head. Fortunately for him Whole Foods was out of skate wings (or so he claimed) and we ended up with a fillet of cod instead. (Side Note: When it comes to procuring skate wings for this challenge I am in AWE of climbinghiak who caught his own skate while fishing in Alaska.)

Making the Powdered Flavors

So I set out to tackle my first molecular gastronomy recipe with a big dose of skepticism and (I must admit) a tiny bit of curiosity. I dried out the powders in my microwave, coming *this* close to burning a few, and then proceeded to grind them over the course of a few days. By the time I was finished I had: dried caper powder, dried cilantro/parsley powder, dried lemon peel/citric acid powder, dried red onion powder, and a dried banana chip/milk powder. That was a LOT of powders!

Making the Buerre Monte and Poaching Liquid

Once the powders were behind me, preparing the fish was actually rather straightforward. A beurre monte (created by whisking cubes of butter into a small amount of water and forming an emulsion) served as the poaching liquid for both the fish and the green beans. The poaching took place quickly. Then I spread out the powders and plated the fish on top of banana slices and the beans.

Cod, Traditional Flavors Powdered

Mr. B selected a bottle of Conundrum wine to accompany the dinner, and we sat down to enjoy our first molecular meal. As I stared at the plate in front of me, I thought "this had better be worth all of the fussing". I took a piece of the fish with banana and dipped it into the powders. Once in my mouth the flavors really started to pop. Citric acid made my lips pucker, the onion powder gave everything a smoky depth, and the banana added a cool creamy texture. Very interesting.

Then I took a bite of the beans- WOW. There are no words to describe how awesome the beans tasted. They were unequivocally the best green beans I have ever eaten. Yes you simply slice them very thinly and poach them in butter, but somehow that transforms the flavor into an out of this world green bean experience. As I spooned some more beans onto my plate Mr. B watched me closely and then protested, "Leave some for me!" Apparently he thought that they were the best beans he'd ever encountered too. We didn't quite count out the rounds of beans to make sure they were equally shared, but it almost got to that point!

Traditional Flavors Powdered

Cod Plated on Micro Beans and Bananas

Would I make the fish again? No, probably not. While the powders were interesting and quite lively in flavor, I honestly would have been just as happy with a nice spice rub. However I would complete the entire challenge again just to have the recipe for those beans! So because I love all of you I'm going to share that recipe here. If you are interested in the entire fish recipe you can find it over at The Daring Kitchen.

A quick note on the wine:

Mr. B nailed it with this pairing. Conundrum is a sophisticated French-style white wine with a mouthwatering array of flavors. The nose was light and pleasing with an aroma of butterscotch. After a sip, the wine tasted honeyed with elements of apricot and banana. Yet the sweet flavor profile did not leave an unpleasant coating on the tongue, instead the wine was well balanced with a clean finish. When enjoyed with the food the wine became even more lush and the flavors mingled together in a way that elevated both the wine and the food to new heights.

Green Beans in Beurre Monte (Printable Recipe)

Ingredients:

300g fresh green beans
1 stick butter, cubed and cold
115g water, divided
Salt

Directions:

Place 15g water in a small pot and bring it to a boil. Remove from heat and whisk in the butter, only a few cubes at a time. The butter should slowly melt and form an emulsion with the water. Place the pot back over low heat, and keep the liquid warm, but under 195 degrees. (This prevents the emulsion from breaking.)

Trim the ends off of the green beans and then slice them into very thin rounds (about 2 mm).

Add 100g of water to the buerre monte (you should have equal amounts of buerre monte and water) and bring it to a boil. Add the green bean slices into the pot and boil over high heat. Cook the beans, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has almost evaporated and then pan is starting to look dry. (About 4 minutes.) Remove pot from heat and season beans with salt to taste.

17 comments:

TKW said...

Oh my god, if I'd been faced with making that recipe I'd have peed myself. WOW.

I am definitely trying the green beans though--I think I can handle that (remember, I'm the chick who makes popsicles and thinks she's genius).

Beautiful pics, as always.

And kudos to Mr. B., who is willing to brave Whole Foods alone. My hubs is terrified of that place.

catherine @ www.unconfidentialcook.com said...

Off to get some beans....It's hard to imagine they could be that good, but I TOTALLY trust you, and I would love to be able to get Bruce and Emma to love beans. You plate is gorgeous, as are the photos (good enough for ???)?

Phoo-D said...

TKW- Thanks, yes Mr. B loves Whole Foods almost as much as I do. He actually worked there for a summer while in college.
Catherine- Let me know how you like them! I really did love the beans. Be sure to use enough salt so the flavor pops. (We'll see if the photos go through!)

Screwed Up Texan said...

Phoo-D, has Mr. B ever tried Mustang Grape Wine? (Muscadine Wine) My grandmother used to make moonshine with the grapes, and I hear it is very good and high in nutrients such as revisterol.

Carolyn said...

I'm SO impressed. Good for you!

lisamichele said...

GOrgeous plating and photos, and your spider web design with the powders is dramatic and very cool looking. I also LOVED the green beans, although I overcooked mine a bit. Best ever!

climbhighak said...

Well first off thank you for the link and mention above. I have to say that the fishing was the most fun part of this adventure.

Hearing about you two dividing up the beans is hilarious. I agree that they are delicious. Now I am wondering if emulsions similar to the beurre monte could be made with duck fat or bacon grease. HMMmmmmm

You put out a wonderfully beautiful meal and then an equally beautiful post.

Amy I. said...

Big props for the challenge, especially after thinking about not doing it! I opted out for a bunch of reasons, but I'm loving seeing the results! Nice work :)

Charles G Thompson said...

Congrats on cooking your first molecular recipe! I am still a bit like you: unsure of the whole movement, stuck in more traditional food and cooking. But living here in LA it is everywhere so I have been eating it. It might be growing on me... nice post, beautiful pictures!

Audax said...

Beautiful pixs and such vivid colours and your description of the beans makes my mouth water, yes I agree with you entirely about the butter sauce and the effect is has on beans (WOW and double WOW). A scary recipe at first glance but fairlly easy after the powders are made. Molecular cuisine - such a new food movement well at least you have made a dish from it. Yes I will have to count out the beans the next time I make it. Cheers from Audax in Australia.

Kristin @ Going Country said...

That is a seriously impressive plate of food.

Phoo-D said...

Allie- I don't know that he has. We've tried Muscadet but I think that is different. We'll have to keep an eye out for it- sounds wonderful!
Carolyn- Thank you!
Lisa- Thanks, the beans were delicious!
climbinghiak- Thanks for stopping by. A duck fat emulsion? I don't think I could handle the goodness!
Amy- Thank you!
Charles- I would welcome the chance to delve into it a bit more at restaurants but alas that will require a bit of traveling!
Audax- Thanks for stopping by! Your version was incredible.
Kristin- Thanks! Though not nearly as impressive as rounding up a woodchuck behind the washing machine. I think A is Superman!

Bella Vita said...

I am so thrilled to find your blog, that is put together so well. Thank you for your creativity and enlightenment among us foodie bloggers. I'll add you to my blogger list. Hope you stop by to say hi too sometime. Roz (aka bella)

Marta said...

This challenge has got me mesmerized1 It's so hard! hahaha lots of work went into it and it shows, your final dish looks beautiful!

newlyweds said...

Great job, super impressed. I totally missed this months challenge.

Tim said...

Love the presentation! I have no trouble believing that the beans were awesome — I have yet to poach something in butter without tasty results.

Laura said...

Beautiful pictures! Great job!

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