Marquis Philips, Sarah's Blend, 2005

If you are not too proud to admit that you still enjoy a fruit bomb now and then the Marquis Philips Sarah's Blend might be a wine for you. Here I do not mean fruit bomb in the pejorative rather as an affectionate term for one of the biggest, most plush wines you will find out there. Indeed, at 15.9% alcohol this Australian blend of predominantly Shiraz and lesser amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc sourced from the McLaren Vale vineyards is all about the fruit. The screw cap is an indication of its drink now character.

Here are the tasting notes:
Its deep inky color and heavy nose of dried fruit corresponds well with the way it fills the mouth and delivers layers of plush sweet cherries. Though you can sense it has a high alcohol level it is not hot or unpleasant from the alcohol. This wine is round, full, deep in savory cherry, yet not overly sweet.

It should stand up well to most grilled or roasted meat dishes as it did to a roasted stuffed pork tenderloin. Do not expect this wine to be especially interesting with food or enhanced by many spices other than say- black pepper. This is not to state that it disappoints in any way. On the contrary, at $16 this is a fantastic big drinking wine from down under. Over the past year I have been pleased to see a widening distribution for this wine. You should be able to find it at a Wholefoods or even your local grocery store wine section. If Sarah's Blend piques your interest to taste a more sophisticated wine from Marquis Philips try the S2 Cabernet Sauvignon which I hope to review at a later date.
Cheers!
Mr. B.

Stir Fried Edamame with Garlic and Chile

For me, the Superbowl represents an annual test of wills, not on the field mind you, rather between the perennial New Year's resolve to stick to healthy food and the temptation of joining thousands of people around the country in an afternoon of finger-licking, beer drinking, chip crunching revelry.

I must confess that I don't follow football. I couldn't even tell you who's playing in the upcoming game. However, when there is a reason to make over-the-top snack food and lounge on the couch watching crazy ads - who can resist?

This quick and easy recipe for stir fried edamame manages to satisfy the craving for salty, spicy and crunchy finger food while still scoring on the healthy side. When I introduced this recipe to my family, it quickly became a favorite snack. Even my brother, who grew up claiming to like nothing green but jelly beans, will chow down an entire bowl in nothing flat! So add this to your Superbowl line up and feel slightly less guilty about all those chicken wings.

A few simple ingredients

A quick stir fry

Mmmmm

Stir Fried Edamame with Garlic and Chile
Serves 2-4 (depending on how much you like to share!)
Recipe from Gourmet Magazine

Ingredients:
1 lb. frozen edamame (soybeans in shell)
2 Tablespoons soy sauce
2 Tablespoons oyster sauce
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
1/4 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons minced peeled fresh ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic

Directions:
Cook soybeans in a 5-6 quart pot of boiling unsalted water for 5 minutes, then drain in a colander.

Stir together soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil, and red-pepper flakes in a small bowl.

Heat wok over high heat until a drop of water evaporates immediately. Add vegetable oil, swirling it to coat wok. Add ginger and garlic and stir fry until fragrant, about 15 seconds, then add soybeans, and stir fry until pods are lightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Add soy sauce mixture and stir-fry until soybeans are well coated and most of liquid is evaporated, about 1 minute.

Mulled Apple Cider with Rum

I came to love mulled cider as a freshman in college, when I used to escape the confines of the campus each Sunday and head downtown with a backpack full of textbooks. Before settling into a chair at Starbucks, I would browse through the nearby Williams-Sonoma, day dreaming about having a kitchen of my own. In the winter months, the Williams-Sonoma staff would always have a pot of mulled cider simmering away, filling the entire store with the comforting scents of cinnamon, orange peel, allspice, and clove. It smelled like home. (And it didn't hurt that they offered free samples.)

Once I finally had my own kitchen, mulled cider quickly became a regular in the winter drink rotation, and Mr. B has heartily welcomed the addition. The combination of mulled cider with a cinnamon swizzle stick and an (optional) jigger of rum will thaw out the coldest of noses and is easy to make for just one person or to warm up an entire sledding party.

You can make your own mulling spices, however I am very happy with the combination from Williams-Sonoma which is seasonally available in stores. (Ebay seems to have quite a few too). It is helpful to have a large tea infuser, but you can also use cheesecloth to make a satchel for the spices.

Mulled Apple Cider with Rum
Serves 4
Recipe from Williams-Sonoma

Ingredients:

4 cups apple cider (fresh pressed is best)
2 Tablespoons mulling spices
Cinnamon sticks
Rum (optional)

Directions:
Pour apple cider into a small pot and place over medium heat. Measure mulling spices into a tea infuser. (Or cut a 2"x2" square of cheesecloth, place spices in the middle, pull corners up around spices and tie closed with kitchen string to create a small satchel.) Place infuser or cheesecloth satchel into the cider, and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently for 20 minutes to infuse spices into the cider.

If you're using rum, pour 1 1/2 ounces of rum into the bottom of each mug. Add one cup of mulled apple cider into the mug, stir with a cinnamon stick and serve.

Pineapple Bundt Cake with Caramel Glaze

Last week was marked by a whirlwind of activity in our world. During the middle of the week I was on the road for work - fighting airline cancellations, late nights, and frigid weather. Later in the week Mr. B hosted clients in town for a long weekend and my dear "adopted" grandma lost a long battle with cancer. By Sunday night I couldn't even think of making dinner but needed a serious distraction from life.

Mr. B came to the rescue as usual. Picking up a ripe pineapple that was sitting on our counter he walked over to the pantry and nosed around. After a few minutes he approached me carrying the pineapple, a bundt pan, candied ginger, and said: "Why don't we make a cake?". It was an inspired idea and I loved him for the challenge of making a bundt cake like none I'd seen before. Who needs dinner when you can make cake?

(Though for the record, Mr. B made some killer grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup while the cake was baking. What a nice guy.)

We decided to do a riff on traditional pineapple upside down cake and incorporate a caramel pineapple topping. I referenced this Dorie Greenspan recipe for the basic ratios of wet and dry ingredients and went on to play from there. The resulting cake was just what we needed. Sweetly caramelized pineapple sits atop a moist subtly spiced bundt cake that crumbles beautifully beneath a fork. The caramel syrup wraps around each piece, creating a chewy sticky exterior that is a perfect counterpoint to the fluffy interior. The flavor improved so much on the second and third days, that I would plan on making it a day ahead and try to resist diving in while it is hot out of the oven (difficult, I know). Mr. B's only suggestion for improvement was to spritz rum over the warm cake before adding the caramel glaze. I think this may be a little unnecessary, but you probably can't go wrong with rum!

The Ingredients

Mixing the dry ingredients into the batter

Folding in the pineapple chunks and candied ginger

Caramelizing the pineapple slices

The caramelized pineapple slices

Layering in the topping

Hot out of the oven


The psychedelic shot!

This cake has been included in a Cake Collection over at 1 Family.Friendly.Food. Check it out!

Pineapple Bundt Cake with Caramel Glaze
Serves 10

Ingredients:

Topping
1/2 pineapple, thinly sliced
2 Tablespoons Rum
2 teaspoons Vanilla
1/2 stick unsalted butter (4 tablespoons)

Cake
2 cups all purpose flour
3/4 cups cake flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 - 1/4 cup diced candied ginger, depending on your preference
1/2 pineapple, chopped
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
3 large eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup plain reduced-fat (2%) Greek-style yogurt or cream top style vanilla yogurt
2 Tablespoons Rum

Caramel Syrup (Step-by-Step Photos Below)
2 cups sugar
1/2 cup water
1 cup water (for "stopping" the caramelization process)

Directions:

One hour before making the cake, remove butter and eggs from fridge and set out on counter to reach room temperature.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 12-cup Bundt pan. (Make sure it is well coated or the top of the cake will stick when turned out.)

Prep Work

Remove top of pineapple and set aside for decorative use if desired. Carefully slice outer skin off of the pineapple. Cut pineapple into large pieces and remove tough inner core.

Coarsely chop half of the pineapple and set aside for incorporation into the batter.

Thinly slice remaining half of the pineapple. Soak pineapple slices in 2 teaspoons vanilla and 2 Tablespoons rum while prepping other ingredients.

Finely dice 1/8 - 1/4 cup of candied ginger and set aside.

Make the Batter

Whisk first 8 cake ingredients in medium bowl to blend. Using an electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until smooth. Add both sugars and beat until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating 1 minute after each addition. Beat in vanilla extract, then yogurt. Add dry ingredients; beat just until blended. Fold in chopped pineapple chunks and all diced ginger. Set batter aside to rest.

Make the Topping

Melt 1/2 stick butter in a medium saucepan with tall sides. Add in pineapple slices with soaking liquid and saute until pineapple turns a golden color. Remove pineapple with a slotted spoon from pan and reserve. Wipe pan clean and set aside for caramel syrup.

Make the Caramel Syrup (Step-by-Step Photos Below)

Using a medium saucepan with tall sides, mix water and sugar until well combined. You may use a wet pastry brush to brush down any sugar crystals that stick to the sides of the pan. Turn heat to highest level, and cook mixture stirring frequently until the color changes to amber and it begins to smoke. (This will take at about 7 minutes.)

When the color change occurs, very carefully pour in one cup of water. Be prepared with long sleeves and oven mitts on, because when you add water the mixture will pop and splatter like crazy, sending burning hot sugar everywhere. You may want a bowl of cold water or a faucet nearby just in case any lands on your skin. Yes, it's that hot and dangerous - exciting isn't it?

Reduce heat to medium and whisk until mixture has reduced slightly. To check doneness, allow caramel to cool on a small spoon and then feel it to see if it is slightly sticky.

Assemble Cake

Evenly distribute reserved caramelized pineapple slices around the bottom of the bundt pan. Pour about 1/2 cup of caramel syrup on top of caramelized pineapple pieces. Set remaining caramel syrup aside for later use.

Carefully pour cake batter into bundt pan, trying not to disturb the topping, and smoothing the top of the batter with a spatula to create a level surface. Gently tap bottom of bundt pan on the counter a few times to settle batter and remove any air bubbles.

Bake cake until a tester (I used a long wooden skewer) inserted near center comes out clean, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Cool cake in pan 10 minutes. Turn cake out onto a platter and let cool completely.

While cake is cooling, warm up remaining caramel syrup and drizzle evenly over the top of the bundt cake.

Once cool, you can garnish the cake by placing the reserved pineapple top in the center of the ring, if desired.

Cake is best if made one or two days ahead. Store covered at room temperature.

Caramel Syrup Step-by-Step Photos:

Okay - so the ingredient list here is quite simple, but after totally botching my first attempt (without a recipe), I found this recipe and tried again. These step-by-step photos should help you get a visual on what the process should look like when all goes well.

A few notes: The water is added in photo #6 (notice Mr. B stepped back when taking the photo - yes it was hot and dangerous for a minute there). Also notice that I switched from a metal fork to a heat resistant spatula? Yeah, apparently metal gets hot. Very hot. Not one of my brightest moments!

Felino, Malbec 2007

Vina Cobos El Felino Malbec, 2007. If you have ever doubted that you love Argentinian malbecs then you likely have not had the fortune to ply the genius of winemaker Paul Hobb's South American creations. His entry level malbec, El Felino, gets our attention here. I have enjoyed many sub-$20 Argentinian malbecs but never ventured up to a higher quality bottle. A memorable encounter with Felino's cousin, Cocodrilo Cabernet, convinced me that I needed to search out this relatively hard to find wine and see just how great a malbec could be.

Did someone say kitty?

Here Are the Tasting Notes:
The deep purple-hued wine had an underwhelming bouquet-though presented a hint of boysenberry jam. The wine coats the tongue, is supple, well rounded, and carries the strong flavor of ripe fruit from start to finish. A wonderful balance is achieved with tight tannins, acidity, and focus. This malbec stands up to food nicely and paired with a dish of adobo spiced turkey (recipe to be posted at a later date) became more interesting and complex throughout the meal. The boysenberry fruit comes through subtly and is held in check with some dryness and an earthy spice. This versatile wine could be enjoyed on its own or would complement many dishes in the spicy sweet realm. Fortunately I bought a few more at a small independent wine store and will treat them as a special wine for the amazing price of $20.

Cheers!
Mr. B

Preserved Meyer Lemons

This past Christmas, Mr. B surprised me with a red Tagine and Moroccan cookbook. I think he was dropping a big hint that it was time to learn how to make Moroccan dishes! We both love braised lamb shanks, and could eat chickpeas until we burst, so it only made sense to graduate into the finer dishes of Moroccan cuisine. As I thumbed through the recipes in Cooking at the Kasbah I noticed that several call for preserved lemons. With drawers full of my grandfather's beautiful Meyer lemons I decided that the perfect way to make them last a bit longer was to preserve them and kick off our Moroccan eating adventures.

Preserving the lemons couldn't be easier, and is an excellent way to use an abundance of citrus without wasting any part of the fruit. You will need a sterilized glass jar with a lid, salt, and lemons. That's it. (Oh, and you'll need to wait at least four to six weeks - I'm still working on that part!)

The ingredients

Slicing the lemon part-way through


Repeating the slice after turning the lemon upside down and rotating 90 degrees


Stuffing the lemon full of salt

Squishing the lemons into a sterilized jar

Check to make sure the top is covered completely in juice. (This jar needs a little more.)

While I'm impatiently waiting for the lemons to preserve, we're trying to decide what dish to make first: Roasted Three Pepper and Preserved Lemon salad, Tagine of Chicken with Preserved Lemons and Artichoke Hearts, or how about Leg of Lamb with Preserved Lemon, Olive Oil, Garlic, and Cumin Marinade? They all look good! What dish gets your vote?

Preserved Lemons (L'Hamd Markad)
Recipe Adapted From: Cooking at the Kasbah, by Kitty Morse

Ingredients:
4 lemons (Meyers are best), rinsed and scrubbed
Salt (Kosher, Sea Salt, or Ice Cream salt, will all work)
Extra lemon juice (as needed)

Special Equipment:
1 glass jar (sterilized, with lid)

Directions:
Dry off the lemons. Slice a thin dime sized piece off each end of a lemon. Place the lemon on end and cut straight down through the fruit, stopping about 1/2" before the bottom (you do not want to cut the lemon in half). Turn the lemon on the opposite end, and repeat the cut at a 90 degree angle to the first cut. (Again stop before cutting all the way through the lemon.)

Fill the cuts with as much salt as you can, and place the lemon at the bottom of the sterilized glass jar. Repeat with the remaining lemons, pressing them down into the jar, until there is no space left for additional lemons. The lemon juice will have risen in the jar during this process. If it is not completely covering the top of lemons, add additional juice as necessary. Seal and set jar in a cool dark place.

Check on the jar over the next several days, adding additional lemons and juice if there is space. You want to make sure that there is always juice covering the very top of the lemons. After 4-6 weeks the lemons will have tender rinds, and be ready to use in recipes. Rinse the lemons gently and discard any seeds before using. Store jar in the fridge after opening. (They will keep for up to 6 months in the fridge.)

Cook's Note:
If the juice doesn't cover the top of the lemons completely, you may see mold beginning to form where the lemons contact air. Don't worry, just remove the mold with a clean knife, and add more lemon juice to cover the lemons completely.

Roast Chicken with Meyer Lemon and Sage

I must confess, when it comes to recipes I'm a bit of a heart breaker. I will find a recipe, love it, and then promptly leave it in pursuit of the next dish. I'm still at the point in life where I'm eager to try as many new flavors and foods as possible and hate the thought of being stuck in a recipe rut.

Yet there are exceptions- a few dishes so enchanting I cannot resist calling them up for dinner again and again. Julia Child's Roast Chicken with Lemon and Herbs is one of those dishes. I started making this recipe right after Mr. B and I were married, following the discovery of an excellent source for locally raised chickens. The meat is always satisfyingly moist and delicious. The basic recipe can be adapted to whatever fresh herbs you have on hand. If you are fortunate enough to have Meyer lemons available, they are excellent when used in this dish. (I've even gone so far as to incorporate sliced rings of bell pepper under the skin when I really wanted to branch out.) Combined with roast carrots, potato gratin, and a German Riesling, this roast chicken is one of our favorite ways to wrap up the weekend.

The ingredient line up

Distributing butter underneath the skin

Before Roasting

After Roasting

Roast Chicken with Meyer Lemon and Sage
Serves 4
Recipe adapted from Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home

Ingredients:

1, 3 1/2 lb chicken (Free range/Organic and fresh if at all possible)
Salt and Pepper
6 fresh sage leaves (or tarragon, rosemary, or basil)
2 large lemons, cut in ¼ inch slices (Meyer lemons if available)
8 Tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter at room temperature, divided
2/3 cup mixed roughly chopped carrots and onions

For the deglazing sauce:

1-2 Tablespoons minced shallot or scallion
1/3 cup dry vermouth or dry white wine
2/3 cup chicken stock
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter (optional)

Special equipment:

A roasting pan 2-6 inches deep, a V-shaped roasting rack; a pastry brush for basting; a board or platter for resting and carving; cotton kitchen twine

Directions:

Remove the chicken from the fridge and set out on a counter for 30 minutes.

Place the oven rack on the lower level of the oven, and preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Preparing the Chicken

Rinse the chicken well (inside and out) and pat it dry with paper towels.

If you like (it makes carving easier) remove the wishbone. A photo of how to do this can be seen here. Don't worry if the wishbone breaks, just use your fingers to pull out the pieces.

Tuck the wings up against the breast where they will be held in place by the rack.

Cut 6 tablespoons of butter into small pieces. Carefully slide your hand underneath the chicken skin, and gently move over the breast and leg meat to create space between the skin and the meat. You don't want to tear the skin, so try to keep your hand as flat as possible and work slowly if necessary. Once you've created space, evenly distribute the butter beneath the skin.

Next, take 6 lemon slices and slide them underneath the skin, giving them a slight squeeze, and again evenly distributing them on top of the breast and thigh meat.

Finally, evenly distribute sage leaves underneath the skin as well.

Take the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, and gently rub it all over the outside skin of the chicken. Salt and pepper the outside of the chicken and inside the cavity. Drop 2 lemon slices and any leftover herbs into the cavity, giving the slices a slight squeeze as you place them inside.

Tie the ends of the drumsticks together with twine. Place the chicken breast up on the rack in the roasting pan. Finally, squeeze the juice of the remaining lemon pieces all over the top of the chicken.

Roasting the Chicken

Place roasting pan in the oven, with the chicken legs pointed to the back of the oven if the pan will fit this direction.

After 15 minutes, lower the oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Check on the chicken every fifteen minutes or so, and when you see it beginning to brown quickly on top, baste the chicken with the pan juices. If there is no liquid in the bottom of the pan, add a 1/2 cup of water or chicken stock to the pan.

After 30 minutes has passed, place the onions and carrots into the pan and continue cooking.

Roast the chicken for an hour, basting several times. The chicken will be done when the juices run clear and when the leg joint can be easily moved if wiggled. A thermometer inserted into the thick part of the thigh should read 180 degrees.

Depending on the size of the chicken this will take 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.

Once done, move the chicken off of the rack and place on a cutting board to rest for 15 minutes before carving. According to Julia, this allows the juices to retreat back into the flesh.

Deglazing Sauce

Once the chicken is resting, remove the rack from the roasting pan; tilt pan so juices run to one corner, and remove as much accumulated fat from juices as possible.

Place the roasting pan on a stove burner over medium heat; add the shallots and stir briefly, until sizzling. Carefully pour in the wine or vermouth and the stock and heat rapidly to a simmer, scraping up all glazed bits in the pan.

Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning; you can add more wine or stock, and boil it down a bit to thicken. Whisk in the butter just before serving, for a richer finish. Using a slotted spoon remove bits from sauce and serve alongside the chicken.

Slice chicken into serving pieces, pour a bit of the sauce on top, and serve.

Pinot Noir Braised Salmon and Leeks

One of the ways we lived off the land when I was young was by fishing. My father is an avid fisherman. Mr. B and I even jokingly call him the Fish Whisperer. He has the uncanny ability to catch fish anywhere, any time, and usually once a week. The photo above shows my father, brother, me, and the biggest fish I have ever caught. I was about 10 years old and the late summer run of King salmon was moving through our area. I can remember the night clearly, not only because the 20 lb salmon was my biggest fish ever, but also because it was bigger than the 16 lb fish my Dad caught that night. You could say that even at 10 I was a bit (ahem) competitive. The grin on my face is both from the thrill of reeling in such a big fish by myself and knowing that for once I had really out-fished my Dad. (For the record - it hasn't happened since!) With the frequent fishing in my family I have probably eaten freshly caught salmon at least 100 times. Yet, to my recollection, I had never braised a salmon. After making Molly Stevens' Pinot Noir Braised Salmon and Leeks, I wondered what took me so long!

If you don't own All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking by Molly Stevens- go buy it. Seriously, don't wait any longer. It's that good. I would even go so far as to say that it is possibly my favorite cookbook of all time. The opening section clearly lays out the fundamentals of braising in a manner that will unlock the door to endless experimentation and successful braised meals. The recipes are fantastic and include several variations to spur creativity with each dish. Additionally, suggested wine pairings can turn a slow cooked meal into an occasion to celebrate.

I combined two similar recipes in the book to incorporate both leeks and salmon in the braise. The leeks will actually take a little bit longer to cook than the salmon, so you will want to start those first and then add in the fish. The ingredients in this recipe are surprisingly similar to a Coq au Vin. However the Pinot Noir and leeks keep the dish from becoming too heavy, and allow the Salmon to maintain a creamy brightness that is simply delicious.

Sweating the vegetables

Ready to go into the oven

Fish on!

Pinot Noir Braised Salmon and Leeks
Serves 4
Adapted from All About Braising by Molly Stevens

Ingredients:
4 skin-on salmon fillets (wild caught is best), about 1 1/2" thick weighing 6 oz each

1/4 pound (4oz) mushrooms, cleaned of any dirt (brown button are excellent)

5 slices thickly cut bacon, cut into 1/2" wide strips (avoid strongly flavored bacon)

1 leek, finely chopped and thoroughly washed

2 leeks, root end trimmed, and sliced lengthwise stopping about 1/2" before cutting all the way through the root end. Clean by running under water and ruffling the layers like you are thumbing through the pages of a book.

1 carrot, finely chopped

1 small shallot, finely chopped

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups light red wine, such as Pinot Noir or Beaujolais

Three 2-3" leafy fresh sprigs of thyme

2 Tablespoons unsalted butter

2 Tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley

Directions:

Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Rinse salmon fillets under cold water and pat to dry. Carefully run your fingers down the flesh, checking for any bones, including the small row of pinbones that sometimes are not removed by the fishmonger. Remove any bones using tweezers or a small knife.

Trim off the base of all mushroom stems and discard. Remove stems and chop coarsely. Set aside. Cut the caps into thin slices and set aside apart from the stems.

Use a deep oven proof skillet or a shallow braising pan, just big enough to contain the salmon without crowding the fillets (I used a 14" skillet). Add half the bacon to the cold skillet, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the bacon is just turning brown (around 8 minutes, not crisp!) and has rendered most of its fat. Add to the skillet: chopped leek, carrot, shallot, reserved mushroom stems, salt and pepper to taste. Saute, stirring frequently until the vegetables are starting to brown and have become tender (again around 8 minutes). Pour in 1 cup of wine and add the thyme. Bring liquid to a brisk simmer and cook until the wine is reduced by half (about 10 minutes). Add in the remaining 1 cup of wine and simmer for another 5 minutes.

While the wine is reducing, put the remaining bacon in a medium skillet over medium heat and cook until crisp. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon to a small bowl and set it aside. Pour off most of the bacon fat remaining in the skillet and add 1 tablespoon of butter. Swirl off the heat to keep the butter from browning too fast. Add in the sliced mushroom caps and place skillet over medium-high heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and saute shaking the pan frequently until all liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are tender and nicely browned. Remove mushrooms from pan and place in a separate bowl. Do not clean the skillet but set aside for later use when making the finishing sauce.

Once the wine has reduced completely, add the 2 remaining leeks into the skillet and cover tightly with a lid. Simmer for five minutes to soften leeks slightly. Meanwhile season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper. Once the leeks have slightly softened push them to the sides of the skillet and arrange the fillets skin side down in the liquid. Cover skillet tightly with a lid, and place on a rack in the middle of the oven. Braise for 15-18 minutes. About halfway through the cooking time sneak a peak under the lid to make sure the liquid is simmering gently and to baste the salmon and leeks with the wine. If the liquid is strongly simmering, reduce the oven temperature by 10 or 15 degrees. Check to see if the salmon is done by discreetly cutting into the thickest part of a fillet and looking to see if it is an opaque color on the outside while still maintaining a slight translucent quality in the center. When the salmon is done cooking, remove the pan from the oven and gently transfer the fish and the leeks (a large spatula works well here) onto a platter. Cover fish loosely with foil and keep in a warm place. (I opened up the oven door and set it on a rack with the door left open.)

To make the finishing sauce, strain the braising liquid into the set aside skillet. Push down on the vegetables in the strainer to get every last bit of the good liquid out of them. Bring liquid to a quick simmer over medium-high heat. After just a few minutes, lower the heat to medium, and when the simmer has slowed down considerably, whisk in the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Stir in the parsley and taste the sauce to see if it needs any additional salt or pepper. Add in the reserved crispy bacon and sauteed mushrooms, and cook until they are heated through.

Place the salmon fillets and half of a leek on dinner plates. Spoon the sauce on top and serve.

Meyer Lemon Heaven

I love my grandfather. A lot. For the past few years, I gave him healthy baby Meyer lemon trees on Father's Day. He diligently watered, fertilized, and nurtured these little twigs until they grew into beautiful fruit laden trees. And now, in the middle of winter, when my world is cold, white, and dark by five, my grandfather sends boxes of sunshine. I can think of nothing else I would rather receive than a box of Meyer lemons. When cutting open the box, I bury my nose inside and the fragrance nearly causes me to pass out from delight. It's Meyer lemon heaven.

If you aren't so lucky as to have a grandfather who kindly shares his citrus, before my grandfather's twigs became trees I would frequently order boxes of Meyer lemons from La Vigne Organics . They grow beautiful citrus and the assorted box of lemons, limes, and blood oranges, can be a wonderful cure for the mid-winter blues.

There are many things that I like to do with Meyer lemons. A box always inspires creativity because I can't bear to let any of them go to waste yet they'll last for just a few weeks in the fridge. A few of my favorite things include: sorbet, candied lemon peel, Meyer lemon martinis, creme fraiche ice cream with aforementioned lemon peel, or simply in a glass with vodka, tonic and a few ice cubes. I will share more Meyer lemon recipes over the next few weeks but I want to start by giving you the simple steps to make candied lemon peel and use the resulting syrup and candied peel to make killer Meyer lemon martinis. (I realize that some purists will take issue with calling anything without gin a martini. I'm not a purist - they miss all the fun!)

Candied Peel Left Out to Dry

All you need is Vodka!

Candied Meyer Lemon Peel

Ingredients:
2-4 Meyer Lemons
1 cup water
2 cups sugar, divided

Directions:
Carefully peel long strips of skin off of the lemons, doing your best to leave behind all white pith which is just under the skin. Slice peel into thin matchstick-width strips. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan over medium heat, combine water and 1 cup of sugar, stirring occasionally until the sugar is dissolved, and the mixture starts to bubble around the edges. Remove pan from heat. Drop lemon skin strips into the sugar syrup and cover tightly with a lid. Allow lemon to steep in sugar syrup for 20 minutes.

Spread remaining 1 cup sugar on a large plate. Fish lemon strips out of the sugar syrup with a fork and drop onto the plate a few at a time. Toss lemon strips in sugar until well coated, and then place on a flat surface (a cutting board works well). Repeat until all lemon strips are coated with sugar, adding more sugar to the plate if necessary. Reserve lemon infused sugar syrup for use in the Meyer Lemon Martinis (recipe below). Allow lemon strips to dry for at least an hour. Store candied lemon peel in a covered container in the fridge for up to two weeks. Lemon infused sugar syrup will keep in the fridge for up to one week.

Meyer Lemon Martini
Serves One
I'm sorry I don't have a photo of this - it just didn't last long enough!

Ingredients:
2 oz Vodka
1 oz Meyer lemon sugar syrup (reserved from candied lemon peel above)
1 strip candied lemon peel

Directions:
Place martini glass in the freezer to briefly chill while drink is mixed. Fill a martini shaker with ice. Add vodka and Meyer lemon syrup to shaker. Shake gently to mix. Strain into chilled martini glass. Garnish with strip of candied lemon peel.

Berkshire Pork Roast with Winter Fruits and Port Sauce

Each year for Christmas dinner, I like to pull out all the stops and cook a meal that will be remembered as delicious, indulgent, and most importantly a huge celebration of the Holiday. In past years, prime rib often took the center stage for Christmas dinner, providing a satisfying and reliable performance, while happily leaving both Mr. B and I in a beef induced haze until New Year's Day. This Christmas my family joined us at the table, and I wanted to move beyond the reliable into something new but equally as special.

Earlier in 2008, I stumbled across pork chops from the incredible 100% Kurobuta Berkshire pork of Heritage Pork International. It was the best pork I have ever tasted. Sweet, moist, and sophisticated, to me the flavor truly captured the essence of pork.

Intrigued, I looked up the company and learned that Heritage Pork International is based in Iowa. The company works directly with farmers to ensure that each hog sent to their facility has an identification number and pedigree, guaranteeing a pure Berkshire hog. They process just over 200 hogs per week, and fortunately for home cooks like me, will ship the freshly butchered pork direct. However, it gets even better- the prices are half of what you would pay through a well known company such as Dean and Deluca for the same cut.

Then Gourmet printed a recipe for Pork Roast with Winter Fruits and Port Sauce, inspiration hit and Christmas dinner was set. I ordered an eight bone loin rack roast and literally did a little jig when the box arrived. Inside was the most beautiful pork roast I have ever seen. A thick blanket of snowy white fat wrapped around the tender pink center, which was neatly divided by eight thick rib bones. Some pig!

The pork has landed.

It almost looks like red meat doesn't it?

I followed the recipe exactly, filling the roast on Christmas Eve with a stuffing made from apples, apricots, prunes, shallots, and other ingredients cooked gently in port. The only step skipped was wrapping the roast in bacon, as the thick outer layer of fat on the roast left no need for bacon to keep the meat moist. The final result? Fantastic. The roast was beautiful, delicious, and will be the source of happy Christmas dinner memories throughout the year.

Preparing the stuffing

Creating a center pocket in the roast for stuffing

Hot out of the oven and resting for a bit

Quick shot before delivering to an eager table

Berkshire Pork Roast with Winter Fruits and Port Sauce

Gourmet Magazine, 2008 (serves 8)

Ingredients:

For stuffing:
1/4 pound California dried apricots, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 pound pitted prunes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2/3 cup ruby Port
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 small shallot, finely chopped
3/4 stick unsalted butter
1 tart apple such as Granny Smith, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

For roast:
1 (6-pound) bone-in pork loin roast (8-10 ribs), at room temperature 1 hour
9 or 10 bacon slices (omit these if using Heritage Berkshire Pork)

For port sauce:
1/2 cup ruby Port
1 small shallot, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups water, divided
2 teaspoons arrowroot

Directions:
Make stuffing:
Simmer apricots, prunes, and Port in a small heavy saucepan, covered, 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 10 minutes.

Cook onion and shallot in butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add apple and 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until apple is just tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in apricot mixture and cool.

Stuff and roast pork:
Preheat oven to 500°F with rack in middle.

Make a pocket in center of roast by making a horizontal 1 1/2-inch-wide cut into 1 end of roast with a long thin knife, repeating from opposite end so pocket runs all the way through. Then make a vertical cut through center (forming a cross) to widen pocket. Push about 1 cup stuffing into pocket using a long-handled wooden spoon (you may need to stuff from both sides if roast is long). Reserve remaining stuffing for sauce.

Season roast with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and put in a large flameproof roasting pan. Wrap with bacon, between rib bones, tucking ends under roast. Roast pork 20 minutes, then reduce oven to 325°F and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted 2 inches into center of roast (do not touch bone or stuffing) registers 155°F, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours total.

Transfer roast to a cutting board, reserving pan, and let stand, loosely covered with foil, 15 to 20 minutes. (Temperature of meat will rise to about 160°F; meat will be slightly pink.)

Make sauce:
Skim fat from pan drippings and reserve 1 1/2 tablespoons fat. Straddle pan across 2 burners and add Port to drippings, then deglaze pan by boiling over high heat, stirring and scraping up brown bits, 1 minute. Strain pan juices through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding solids.

Cook shallot in reserved fat in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in pan juices, 1 1/4 cups water, and reserved fruit stuffing and bring to a simmer. Whisk together arrowroot and remaining 1/4 cup water until smooth, then whisk into sauce with any juices from cutting board.

Simmer sauce, whisking occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Carve roast into chops by cutting between ribs, then serve with sauce.

Cooks' notes:
- Stuffing can be made 2 days ahead and chilled.
- Uncooked roast improves in flavor if stuffed, seasoned, and wrapped with bacon 1 day ahead and chilled. Bring to room temperature before roasting.